VintageWatchstraps Logo

Vintage Watch Straps

Straps for vintage fixed wire lug trench or officer's wristwatches.

Blog: Rotherham & Sons English Wristwatch

Date: 21 April 2017

Copyright © David Boettcher 2006 - 2018 all rights reserved.

I make additions and corrections to this web site frequently, but because they are buried somewhere on one of the pages the changes are not very noticeable, so I decided to create this blog section to highlight new material. Here below you will find part of one of the pages that I have recently either changed or added to significantly.

The section reproduced here is from my page about the Coventry, England, watchmaking company Rotherham & Sons.

If you have any comments or questions, please don't hesitate to contact me via my Contact Me page.

An English Wristwatch

Rotherham & Sons were one of the few English companies to make wristwatches. They could not compete on scale or price with American or Swiss manufacturers so these wristwatches are not seen very often. Rotherhams also imported Swiss watches so not every watch with a Rotherhams mark on it was made in England.

Rotherhams English Wristwatch 1914
English Wristwatch Dial. Click image to enlarge
Rotherhams English Wristwatch 1914
English Wristwatch by Rotherhams. Click image to enlarge

The images here show a wristwatch manufactured by Rotherham & Sons in Coventry. The case has London Assay Office hallmarks for a sterling silver item made in Britain with the date letter "t" for 1914 to 1915 and the R&S sponsor's mark entered by John Rotherham.

The serial number on the movement is 253272. I have added this to the graph in the Coventry Factory Production section as a red bar spanning 1914 and 1915 indicating the actual period when the case could have been hallmarked, remembering that hallmark date letters span two calendar years. The red bar falls well below the main sequence of movement serial numbers, which suggests that the movement had been in stock for some time before it was cased up as a wristwatch.

This wristwatch was most likely made to fulfil the demands of newly commissioned British officers leaving for the front during the first year of the Great War. They were expected to purchase their own wristwatches as part of their kit, for which they were given an allowance. This would have been one of the last watches made by Rotherhams at the time, during the war the factory was entirely devoted to war work, making mainly fuses for artillery shells. The dial is not luminised, a feature that quickly became a requirement during the war for watches intended for military service.

Rotherhams English Wristwatch 1914
English Wristwatch Movement. Click image to enlarge
Rotherhams English Wristwatch 1914
English Wristwatch Opened. Click image to enlarge

The watch case was made along traditional lines for an English lever watch. This watch is stem wound and set so, unlike key wound watches, there is no opening outer back, the single case back or bottom is rigidly fixed to the band, the middle part of the case, and does not open. The case is 34.6mm diameter excluding the lugs and crown, a good size for a man's wristwatch.

The view of the dial with the bezel open shows the traditional English method of fixing the movement to the case. At the top there is a joint above the twelve o'clock, with the two outer silver knuckles fixed to the case band and a central brass knuckle fixed to the movement bottom plate. At the bottom, below the six o'clock position, there is a catch that can be released to allow the movement to be swung out from the case, as shown in the picture of the watch opened. Even in the second half of the nineteenth century this looked old fashioned, but it didn't inconvenience the wearer.

The three quarter plate movement measures 29.25mm across the dial plate which makes it an "0" size on the Lancashire Watch gauge, or 13 lignes on the Swiss system. The mainspring is housed in a "going barrel" and drives the train directly, teeth on the outside of the barrel drive the pinion of the centre wheel. English manufacturers had gradually given up on their love affair with the fusee that made watches bulky and was almost impossible to make keyless wound.

The movement shows Rotherhams' typical high level of finish with gilded plates and cocks, polished and blued screws and bright polished steel parts. The ruby jewels are set in chatons and, in addition to the balance wheel, the escape wheel and lever pivots have cap jewels or end stones. The jewel count is not stated but is most likely 19, the 15 jewels usually found in a lever escapement movement jewelled to the third wheel, plus the extra end stones for both the lever and escape wheel.

The escapement is an English right angle lever with pointed tooth escape wheel. The English right angle lever brings the escape wheel closer to the balance staff than does a Swiss straight line lever, which is why the escape wheel is set down below the rim of the balance. The balance has a cut bimetallic rim for temperature compensation, and gold screws for timing and poising. The balance spring has a Breguet overcoil. The regulator lever has a bevelled slot at the end so that its position against the graduated scale can be read off without parallax error.

The top plate is engraved with the name of the retailer, The Goldsmiths and Silversmiths Company, 112 Regent St. London.

Rotherhams English Wristwatch 1914
English Wristwatch Buckle. Click image to enlarge
Rotherhams English Wristwatch 1914
English Wristwatch Case. Click image to enlarge

The view of the case shows at the top the two knuckles attached to the band, and also shows Rotherhams' peculiar design of stem winding. The short case stem has a bevel gear on its inner end. The crown is secured to the case stem by a hollow round nut with a slot that is shown in the inserted detail in the top right of the image.

When the movement is locked into the case, the bevel gear on the case stem engages with a bevel gear in the movement. This is visible in the picture of the movement between the plates, below the "smiths" part of the engraved name. Turning the crown normally winds the mainspring, there is a small olivette on the outside of the case just below the crown with a pin that is pressed in to shift the keyless work into hand setting mode.

The watchstrap buckle has Rotherham and Sons' R&S sponsor's mark. The hallmarks stamped by the London Assay Office are difficult to read because they have been double stamped with an initial shallow stamp overstamped by a second deeper set of marks. The remains of the first set of marks are arranged and spaced exactly the same as the second set of marks showing that they were made by a single combined punch that carried all three part marks, the lion, the leopard's head, and the date letter. Combined punches were also used for stamping the hallmarks in the backs of watch cases, which placed them in a regular pattern. They were pressed into the case by a manually operated fly press. I have examined the marks carefully and I am pretty sure that the date letter is the "n" for 1908 to 1909.

If you have any questions or comments, please don't hesitate to contact me via my Contact Me page. Back to the top of the page.

Copyright © David Boettcher 2006 - 2018 all rights reserved. This page updated June 2018. W3CMVS.